Thursday, December 16, 2010

Thailand sport climbing: can you help?

Since an old friend told me about his climbing trips to Thailand it’s been one of my boxes-to-tick. Climbing by the beach and then relaxing in the blue seas sounds too good to be true. I’m about to find out - I’ve decided to do it later this year…
I’m planning to make the trip in November, which should be good for weather and well clear of the rainy season.
If you’ve been sport climbing in Thailand or know anyone who has, I’d really appreciate your help.
What I need to begin are 2 things:
  1. Recommendations for the best destination
    I’m climbing 6b top-roped indoor and leading 5s at the moment, but with plenty of time to train before November I’ll like to get that into 6s. I’ve heard Krabi and Railay are two hotspots. True?
  2. Climbing schools or centres
    As I’m heading out solo I’d like to arrange a trip, an event, something to guarantee that when I get out there I can get some kit and to ensure there are belay partners around.
So - look forward to hearing from you, and I’ll keep the blog updated with the plans as they come together.

Privacy Policy

Privacy Policy for rock-climbingblog.blogspot.com

If you require any more information or have any questions about our privacy policy, please feel free to contact us by email at rodyber1@gmail.com.

At rock-climbingblog.blogspot.com, the privacy of our visitors is of extreme importance to us. This privacy policy document outlines the types of personal information is received and collected by rock-climbingblog.blogspot.com and how it is used.

Log Files
Like many other Web sites, rock-climbingblog.blogspot.com makes use of log files. The information inside the log files includes internet protocol ( IP ) addresses, type of browser, Internet Service Provider ( ISP ), date/time stamp, referring/exit pages, and number of clicks to analyze trends, administer the site, track user’s movement around the site, and gather demographic information. IP addresses, and other such information are not linked to any information that is personally identifiable.

Cookies and Web Beacons
rock-climbingblog.blogspot.com does use cookies to store information about visitors preferences, record user-specific information on which pages the user access or visit, customize Web page content based on visitors browser type or other information that the visitor sends via their browser.

DoubleClick DART Cookie
.:: Google, as a third party vendor, uses cookies to serve ads on rock-climbingblog.blogspot.com.
.:: Google's use of the DART cookie enables it to serve ads to users based on their visit to rock-climbingblog.blogspot.com and other sites on the Internet.
.:: Users may opt out of the use of the DART cookie by visiting the Google ad and content network privacy policy at the following URL - http://www.google.com/privacy_ads.html

Some of our advertising partners may use cookies and web beacons on our site. Our advertising partners include ....
Google Adsense


These third-party ad servers or ad networks use technology to the advertisements and links that appear on rock-climbingblog.blogspot.com send directly to your browsers. They automatically receive your IP address when this occurs. Other technologies ( such as cookies, JavaScript, or Web Beacons ) may also be used by the third-party ad networks to measure the effectiveness of their advertisements and / or to personalize the advertising content that you see.

rock-climbingblog.blogspot.com has no access to or control over these cookies that are used by third-party advertisers.

You should consult the respective privacy policies of these third-party ad servers for more detailed information on their practices as well as for instructions about how to opt-out of certain practices. rock-climbingblog.blogspot.com's privacy policy does not apply to, and we cannot control the activities of, such other advertisers or web sites.

If you wish to disable cookies, you may do so through your individual browser options. More detailed information about cookie management with specific web browsers can be found at the browsers' respective websites.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 2 (Odyssey)

Thanks for joining us again on our next installment. When we last left you, we were enjoying our rest day. Although - don't you find that the first enforced rest day is the hardest one to take? You've only done two days of climbing and you know you should rest, but...ohhh, you're so excited and just want to do one more day...

Anyway, we played it smart and it was lucky, because coach Cujes (me) had some brutality in store at one of the premiere cliffs on the island, the varied Odyssey.

It started cold and we were snug in our down jackets, and then fingertips were frozen on the limestone of the warmups. Circe 6b, Femio 6a+ and Laertes 5c+ were all dispatched by the crew.

"What was that one like Glenn?" 
"Dunno - couldn't feel a thing!"

Next it was time for a crag tour to find the line which inspired. With about 50-60 classics of all grades to choose from, it wasn't hard. For Matt, the steep and thuggy Lucky Luca 7b beckoned. For Owen, it was the gently overhung, polished and pumpy Amorpha 7b. Glenn and Susy were seduced by the long and technical Dafni 7b. And me, well, I had an old project from the 2008 camp Marci Marc 7c+ - that super enduro mega line. One of the most coveted routes on Kalymnos.

Owen only had a couple of hangs on his first shot on Amorpha 7b (remember, this is the guy who is supposed to be climbing 6a/18 because of his wrist). Solid, solid effort up front. We spent a good while sussing the top crux and getting the sequence just right. On his second shot, he went right through cleanly to the rest 4m from the top, and even though he rested well, the forearms were out of juice for the deadpoint to the two finger pocket - one move shy of the top. Tragedy! Seriously though, don't you love a route that takes you right to the edge? What a perfect proj - he'll be back for it later in the camp.



Owen and his Amporpha 7b © S Cujes 2010

While Lucky Luca 7b may have "looked onsightable", it wasn't to be for Matt who discovered the start is mega bouldery on steep tufa snake pinches. Not surprising, he found some sweet kneebars and kneescums and came away with a smooth second shot send. Tidy work from the Coolum Kid.



Matt putting Lucky Luca 7b to bed © L Cujes 2010

Dafni 7b is a long and imposing, wandering line up a pure white sheet of limestone. Given Glenn's hardest route is 7a/23, the fact he got on this with no beta, placing the draws and working it out as he went was a bloody top effort. Susy then helped refine beta and they both had shots on it together. This is an ace way of figuring out a hard route, particularly if you both have different styles, as sometimes one person is better at unlocking the sequence and the other person benefits from that. Super fun. No sends, but good learnings and great progress. A potential goer for later in the trip.



Glenn on Dafni 7b  © L Cujes 2010

So that leaves me on Marci Marc 7c+. The route is a full 30m long and overhangs about 10m or so. In 2008, I tried it several times, always avoiding the potential kneebar at half height. You have to climb out to it, put it in, and then climb back onto the line and I always thought it probably didn't allow much of a rest anyway. It certainly didn't feel good when I tried it. But here we are in 2010 and I'm in possession of our newly developed Upskill Friction kneebar pads, I thought it'd be wrong not to suit up and get into them. So I tried the kneebar and yep - pretty dang good with these pads! Second shot I climbed solidly from the ground, through to the kneebar, recovered, and then blitzed the crux. What a relief! 10m victory whipper from the top (thanks Susy's rope and Matt's soft catch) and I'm down.



Me chilling in the kneebar on Marci Marc 7c+ © S Cujes 2010

After the big efforts on our projects, we hit the slabs for some no pressure fun. Sheree once again upped her tally of leading on routes such as Eumeo 4b, Argo 4c and Telemaco 5b, and we all played around on these fun slabs with cool features (big stones sticking out of the more weathered limestone).



Slab fun!! © L Cujes 2010

Join us next time as we steepen things up at the dripping tufa wall of Ghost Kitchen!

Capitol Reef National Park

Mike B on a zig zagging 5.11 crack. This one is found in the Grand Wash and is about a 2 minute approach. Classic.

Steph Davis on a nice 12+ splitter. This crack is also in the Grand Wash and is as good as they get for this size. Steph crushed the route easily after her knee surgery months ago.

The Capitol Reef visitor center. Be sure to stop in and get some fresh pies!
Mike B making breakfast on a cool morning in the park. For 10 bucks a night it's quiet and you are right in the middle of everything in the park. Clean bathrooms and friendly folks and hundreds of fruit trees.
Mike B on his overhanging 35meter hand crack. It's awesome! Some easy face/crack climbing at the beginning leads to a beautiful 20 foot overhung handcrack out the dihedral. It is just a minute from the road (Grand Wash).
I am really glad that you have visited my blog.

Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:http://www.scarpa.nethttp://www.arcteryx.comhttp://camp-usa.comhttp://sterlingrope.comhttp://ColoradoMountainJournal.comhttp://www.wunderground.comhttp://climbing.comhttp://rockandice.comhttp://deadpointmag.comhttp://urbanclimbermag.comhttp://andrewburr.comhttp://ladzinski.com

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Great Places to Go Climbing Group

Climbing has much to offer. achieve a sense of fulfillment and joy at the top are difficult to beat. Today, many social groups in the 'packages' are looking for pure joy of rock climbing and team building experiences. Climbing can help build teamwork and friendships.
There are a number of sites in the UK for internal and external groups in the form of climbing. You can view the days activities, normally should be fully recognized trainers offer beginners the chance to learn to navigate safely through a rock. These days are good for your corporate team building, although the costs 50-120 pounds a person can. Here are some sites that you want to attract in your group could get said.
Indoor climbing If you are just a little bit of climbing with a limited effort will be indoor climbing is a good opportunity to pick up. Lakeland is an indoor climbing course, that the private sessions for groups and offering families. Located in Kendal in the Lake District this property offers beginners courses and individual sessions to build skills.

Peak District Climbing in the Peak District began with the pioneers in 1890 and has been expanded so that every weekend, thousands of climbers on the rock. The peak has a wide range of large and small rocks, and with over 10,000 registered increases - probably do not know exactly how much - and the proximity of some major urban areas means that it is a very popular place to climb.
The peak offers a wealth of climbing for all. Valkyrie - Froggatt Edge, north of Cima is a good place tiles and rocks Chew Valley may offer strenuous tiles instead of hard routes.

Wales Wales has a land far more interesting than the mostly flat UK. There are many places to go to centers. Hot spots are Snowdonia and North Pembroke.
Dinas Mot one of the best rock Llanberis (Snowdonia). On the south side, but rarely reaches the sun and is better for a hot summer day of sunshine waiting. There are different types of climbing with spurs, and the roads are long and multi-pitch. The hilly area is 300-500 meters high, with over 100 routes of all levels.
The most popular and best reef in North Pembroke, Carreg-y-Barcud. The rock here is compact sandstone slabs of large sizes in uniform, thin edges and small tears. General face of Carreg-y-Barcud is the largest flat area and a wide choice of routes from E1 upwards.
Other factors When one day climbing to organize a group, you must take into account other factors. Transportation to and from the center, accommodation for a stay of more than a day and food products. If the group is large enough, it might be easier for a mini-bus or coach hire. You must, however, given the size of the vehicle and check their sites you have in mind access to contribute. In basic terms that are the center of climbing on the housing site, or want to find a nearby hotel.

Climbing Techniques - Come Forward for Success

In mountaineering, as in every other area of human activity, you will only reach its full potential if they embrace the concept of failure. Sounds paradoxical, I know, but too many climbers in their comfort zone where you can not stay ... and not much better.
The climb was the old adage: "The leader never falls". And with terrible climbing protection, said that in a good way. Even today, in certain situations, you can still make good sense. There are X-rated rooms in the United States and exposed climb, where a fall would be fatal. No way to succeed in this little beauty, for sure!
But most of the climbing is on a large scale from 0 (most secure is not always) to 10 (terminal). If the limits of your study or your experience of climbing slide, then you can look at locations close to 0 on the serious scale. That is, if you deliberately try to do more serious way, in this case I recommend to be cautious - in fact, very careful.
But suppose you onsighted F6as 20 (5.10B) with success - is not on them. It is clear that the consolidated position (if your current experience). To state the obvious difficult, more difficult routes that you have to go climbing. But it is your choice whether you stay in your comfort zone or stop. Either way is fine as long as you want.
If your comfort zone, then three months later, he had climbed another 15 F6as, bringing the total number to 35 Or maybe you have to be done for five more - all successful - and I tried 10 different routes, which are much more. If you've done this, would your scorecard as follows: 25 F6A success. Four successful F6A + and a failure. F6bs three successful and two defeats. Now you can build a pyramid and press continue to use. Sure there are a few mistakes, but as long as the routes were relatively safe to fall, who cares? (Note: All routes are potentially dangerous. Make sure a competent court must warn you all the time. If you want a helmet, a bear.)
Can you see what's going on? Instead of not avoid like the plague, you accept it as a learning tool. As long as your "average" go up then it is relatively safe, which cares about the occasional failure?
Top climbers are not afraid of the (safe) failure. They know that the profit to remain at 100% of the time, in your comfort zone. The trick is not 'Next' to success. By the way, this tactic also works well in life! Make sure you can not, where the penalties are relatively mild. But the fear of failure (not the error itself) is the biggest thing stopping most people realize their full potential. There is an old movie called climbing, "Break on Through" and that is what we should all do. Break on Through to the other - not only in climbing but in life!
Michael (Mick) Ward has climbed since 1967. 56 years, is still around 5.12 or F7B +. He made many first ascents and mountaineering written for many magazines. He has to improve.

Rock Climbing Why not? Climbing

Why climb? Many consider climbing is very dangerous and will try to talk to you like this, if you plan to do them. Do not stop the thoughts of others should continue to rise. You are responsible for your safety and security of your climbing partners. To reduce the risk of injury, paralysis or death, climb safe and good decision at all times.
Yet, I would like to improve your career secure.
Remember that an increase Matters.
This article is intended for everyone, tell everyone. The novice or experienced climbers that certain something that you want to win will increase your ability to climb.
And do not forget that the goal is to get on and enjoy!
I hope that when they finish reading this article, you must:
Acquire a basic knowledge of climbing.
Why climb?
Personally, it is because there are many paths to climb, you'll never be bored of climbing. Some people enjoy the dynamic total body workout, while others, such as the Community at their local gym. For experienced climbers, are competitors who train all year to the victory. And then you can go just for pure relaxation.
Climbing is the ultimate challenge. Every day on the rocks is a Opportunities for you to your limits and go beyond the powers already difficult paths of study.
Most climbers are also looking for adventure and freedom. Outdoor climbing is an opportunity to combine your favorite outdoor activities. Like many climbing areas are located in remote areas, camping and hiking are often a necessary part of a climbing trip. Enjoy nature and wildlife from when Boulder Boulder is a great compliment for each hiking day. This feeling that you are free to choose where and when to go is great. The exceptional nature and the landscape at the summit, a breathtaking view that will not see many people are treated.
Among other things your children?
Climbing can build stronger ties with your children. Climbing with them at home or outdoor use. Soon it will certainly deserves "respect" them if what you can do to show! You can also try to host a birthday party at your climbing and watch your children the time of their lives.
Friendship
This is almost impossible not to meet new friends, as you climb. And this is one of the main reasons for me getting into. The type of climbing requires responsible involvement and help from other climbers. We always need a good spotter or insurer to climb safely. Moreover, there is always more fun when you're climbing partner to go by train or road.
Fitness
There are two schools of thought. One that, if people get up to get ready to impress with your body that will disappointed, Because it is much easier ways to work instead for a walk in the woods and rocks are dangerous.
The other school of thought is that climbing is easy to get and stay fit. dynamic muscle strength, flexibility, balance, coordination will be developed by varying the type, intensity and duration of the climb. And that is why having a strong, lean muscles with perseverance to develop.
to reach for me, climbing is balance and positioning of the body to a stable equilibrium.
creative movement and adapt quickly will be key to climbing. The experience and fitness, work hand in hand. And many women have a strong climbers climbing men humiliated.
Spiritual
Climbing challenges your reflexes and calm. Although the wall, the path is the mind is so moved that challenge harder.
At least once not to extend back to its original condition.
Any increase for a number of reasons.
There are no right or wrong philosophy of climbing. And no matter what the reason for learning to climb is very similar to learning a bicycle. You never forget the basic moves, but will need much practice to perfect them, if you register for the competition.